Read the label before anything else
Most upholstery carries a cleaning code on a tag under a cushion or beneath the frame. It tells you whether water is safe.
- W — water-based cleaning is safe
- S — solvent only; water can cause rings and shrinkage
- WS — either method is acceptable
- X — vacuum only; do not wet clean at home
Weekly upkeep that genuinely helps
Most of what dulls a sofa is dry: skin cells, crumbs, hair and dust. Get that out regularly and the fabric stays brighter for years.
- Vacuum with the upholstery tool, including down the seams and under cushions
- Rotate and flip cushions so wear spreads evenly
- Keep it out of direct sunlight — fade is permanent
- Wash throws and headrest covers rather than the sofa itself
- Deal with spills within minutes, not hours
Spills: what to do in the first minute
Blot with a clean white cloth, pressing rather than rubbing, and work inwards. Use cold water only. Don't reach for washing-up liquid — the residue stays in the fabric and attracts dirt, leaving a patch that looks worse than the original spill.
When it needs a professional
Darkened headrests and arms are body oils, which household methods won't shift. Pet odour is in the weave and sometimes the foam. Overall dinginess across the whole suite needs even cleaning — patch-cleaning one cushion almost always leaves a visible clean square, which is the most common reason people call us after a DIY attempt.
Frequently asked
- Can I use a carpet cleaner on my sofa?
- Only with a proper upholstery hand tool and a very light hand — carpet machines put down far too much water for cushions, and a soaked foam core takes days to dry and can go musty.
- Does Scotchgard-type protection work?
- Fabric protector genuinely buys you time to blot a spill before it soaks in. It doesn't make a sofa stain-proof, and it wears off, so it's worth reapplying after a clean.